Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Tara's Himalayan Cuisine

Nestled behind blue twinkle lights, and a white gate vaguely representing the outline of Mount Everest, lives a darling little restaurant, named Tara's Himalyan Cuisine. This hole in the wall may be small in scale, but it's food and hospitality are in fact a reflection of the grand mountain it pays homage to. A new aquantaince suggested it to me just last week. We had been discussing travel, and both agreed our favorite part of globe trotting was the gastronimic adventure to be found in each locale. This quickly led to a lively repartee, as we exchanged recommendations for favorite local eats. I offered up an Italian spot in Culver City, and she shot back with one of her favorite's--Tara's Himalayan Cuisine. It wasn't on my food radar. When I asked where it was, she told me it was on Venice, near Overland. My brow furrowed as I tried to place it. I thought I'd familiarized myself with all the good places within a five minute radius of my house. Apparently I'd missed this one. She gushed over the saag, claiming it superior. Before parting, she made me promise to pay the restaurant a visit very soon. Two days later, I did just that.

Tara's on Venice Blvd. 
Sunday evening last, I easily convinced my boyfriend Will, to dine at Tara's. He was game, as he always is. After driving around the block a few times to find parking, we made our way to the front entrance, only to discover that there is actually parking behind the building (mental note for next time). It's a wonder I'd never noticed the place on the dozens of trips I take down Venice Boulevard in any given month. The facade donned happy twinkle lights, colorful flags and a bright neon sign, letting us know they were OPEN. We were welcomed by an outdoor dining patio in the front, which is protected from the busy street by the Everst gate and a row of mature potted trees. It was far too chilly to sit outside that Sunday, but it was easy to imagine sipping on Chiya (Nepali tea) there on a warmer evening.

One of the first things I look for before entering a new restaurant, is the food facility rating. I mentioned this to Will as we walked towardTara's, and he laughed at me, completely aware of my germ phobias, and completley prepared to eat elsewhere should the rating be a "B" or God forbid, a "C." Lucky for me, Tara's is an "A." Having put this concern behind me, I was keen to peruse the menu and begin eating. No reservation was necessary, but for a Sunday evening the restaurant was filled with regulars, eager to stave off the bitter Los Angeles winter, with a steaming plate of Thakali chicken. The decor in Tara's is understated, but certainly inviting. Dim candle light and paper lanterns create a warm glow off the pale yellow walls. Red tablecloths are topped with glass, under which are displayed posters of Mount Everest, reduntant in their obviousness. They could however serve as a last resort of amusement, should you find yourself on an uninsipring first or second date. A series of archways open onto a modest corridor, housing serving stations and separating the dining room from the kitchen.

Chicken Saag
Right away, my nose recognized spicy garam masala and ginger. I couldn't help stealing quick glances at what people had ordered, as we were guided by a charming waitress to a table in the middle of the room. Menu in hand, I caught Will smiling at me. He knew how excited I was about the discovery of a new restuarant. Tara's serves up things like Black Magic Soup, which is made with black lentils and spices. Manang Chilly (notice chili is spelled with a "y") is Yak meat stewed with onions, garlic, tomatoes ginger, bell peppers and green chilies. Dishes you'd expect to find in an Indian restaurant also make their way onto the program--aloo gobi and chicken masala, to name a few. Since my gal pal had raved about the saag, I settled on Chicken Saag. Saag is a spinach puree traditionally containing some other ingredient, like cheese or potatoes. In this case it was a green, velvety blanket for tender chicken. Will chose the Chicken Thakali. Thakali is best described as a Nepalese style curry. To satisfy my thirst, I opted for Mango Lassi, a yogurt milk shake flavored with mango puree.

I'm a fairly intuitive person. So, as we waited for our meals to arrive, I took note of just how at ease all the customers seemed. It was as though Tara herself had personally invited each person, saying, "Hey, why don't you come over for dinner on Sunday? I'm just cooking up a few things. There's plenty to share." Supporting this theory was Tara's appearance on the dining room floor. She casually made her way to each of the tables, lingering to chat and making sure everyone was taken care of. A large party near the front corner of the room had a baby in their group. Tara scooped the chubby boy into her arms and planted kisses all over his pink face. She cooed, and he smiled, instantly at ease. I thought she might come over to our table next, and begin knitting me a sweater, but she didn't.

Naan Bread

When the food finally arrived, I was pleased as punch. In addition to our main courses, I'd also ordered us naan and roti--breads typically found in this region of the world. Bread is usually my favorite part of a meal. It was piping hot, chewy, and perfect for dipping into the luscious sauces set before us. I thought the saag was quite good. The chicken managed to stay tender, but overall it could've benefited from a bit of salt. Otherwise, the dish was satisfying and seemingly healthy. Will's Thakali was tasty as well. The spices lacked the intensity of what most people expect to find in a curry. This was a much milder, softer version of its Inidan cousin. Nevertheless, it pleased the palate. And based on the fervor with which Will finished his food, and some of mine, I would say it went over pretty well. My mango lassi was gorgeous! I'd enjoyed the food and the atmosphere enough that evening, that I brought my best friend to try it with me two days later. She thought it was terrific, but also noted that salt was missing from the chicken masala. The aloo gobi however, was perefection. The cauliflower had caramelized just so, and the spices were spot on. We devoured everything, which is certainly a good indication of our experience at Tara's.

I can confidently recommend Tara's Himalayan Cuisine to anyone who desires the exotic flavors of Nepal, blended with the familiar feeling of being at home. This jewel of a place sparkles brightly along an unremarkable stretch on Venice Blvd.
Tara's Himalayan Cuisine, 10855 Venice Blvd, LA 90034 (310) 836-9696
http://www.katmandukitchen.com/index.html

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Oh My Darling, Clementine















Picture it: an unassuming cafĂ© tucked away on a side street off of Santa Monica Blvd and across from the Century City Shopping Mall. A foodie friend had told me about this jewel of a place called Clementine. He’d hailed it as his new favorite spot. My friend is definitely in the know, but he has a new favorite spot every week. So, despite his glowing review, I delayed in getting over there until recently. A girlfriend of mine called last week saying she wanted to get together and try a new restaurant. I racked my brain, as I always seem to do (even with the surplus of cafes in LA) and told her I’d come up with something grand, right away. We hadn’t seen each other in ages, so the pressure was on to find the perfect combination of good food and an atmosphere conducive to catching up with an old friend. What would I produce? As I scanned the options in my mind’s eye, lots of tired old places came flowing in. I was desperately lacking inspiration, when I glanced up from my laptop and saw a wooden bowl filled with orange clementines, perched upon the faded kitchen counter. That was it! Clementine.


Though it was sunny the day I went to meet my friend Rae at Clementine, the wind was blowing wildly and my hair had gone from curly to crazy within moments. No matter, my thoughts were squarely focused on the imminent experience to come. Did I mention that my friend Rae is very particular about food? No dairy, no pork, no sugar. Basically, all the good stuff. I, on the other hand am a staunch supporter of all that pleases my palate, to include: bacon, animal fat, sugar in all forms and lots and lots of dairy. But I digress. I got there a bit early and walked into the squat, brick building, protected by a bright orange awning. Small. No, intimate. A cozy and informal space featuring no more than about fifteen small wooden tables. It’s about 2 o’clock when I arrive, so the lunch crowd has gone for the most part. I approach the glass display counter, where much to my delight, there are tantalizing treats to behold. My eyes are darting all over the place, unable to focus. I inhale the fresh and pungent aromas swirling amid the busy orchestra that is the nearby kitchen. A lovely young woman comes to my rescue. I sense she can read the overwhelm on my face. She offers to let me taste any and everything I want. She is also my new BFF.

I oblige and begin with a butterbean, kale and bacon salad. The textures and flavors are perfect in my mouth—creamy beans, crunchy kale and salty bacon. It was unfussy and clean. The marriage of these three simple ingredients makes me believe I’ve arrived at the culinary pearly gates! Next is a seafood salad featuring grilled calamari, prawns and seasonal roast veggies like carrots, onions and fennel, tossed in a light vinaigrette, and topped with garbanzo beans. The fennel is a surprise. It’s distinct, but not overpowering. There’s an explosion of sweetness from the seafood, but the smoky flavors of the grill balance it out. The acidity is just right. This dish manages to be satisfying and also light. Finally, I try a jazzy potato salad. It has tuna, fingerling potatoes, radishes, and red onions. I’ve always adored tuna, and right away I knew I wanted to try this dish. The potatoes were a buttery shade of yellow which matched their velvety consistency—just the way I like them. The tuna was moist, and had been dressed simply in olive oil and lemon juice. The radish and onion offered crunch and the perfect amount of heat. This deconstructed version of a Nicoise salad had the effortless heartiness I’d hoped for.

The Delicious Salads

As I swallowed my last bite, in walked Rae, with an expression on her face that could only be described as familiar. Familiar, because five minutes earlier I’d walked into Clementine apprehensive, and then immediately at ease in its obvious warmth. I greeted Rae with a big hug and introduce her to the glass case, displaying the delights I’d recently sampled. She too was overwhelmed by the beautiful choices and was invited to try whatever whetted her appetite. I silently watched as her face lit up in orgasmic glee over savory wilted greens. Relief settled over me the instant I realized this finicky foodie could be just as happy here as I could.

We finally sat down to enjoy our meals at a quiet table by the window. There was little conversation as we both dug into our healthy portions. We’d both decided on a 3-salad combo having quickly understood that choosing just one thing would be impossible. There is tremendous comfort in food. Most people think of comfort food as familiar staples like mac and cheese or mashed potatoes. And while I love those things, I believe it’s really about how the food is presented. Clementine’s food offered an inventive gastronomic experience for my taste buds, and a much needed boost for my soul. Rae and I couldn’t resist ordering buttery German chocolate chip cookies for dessert. We strolled out into the brisk air, each nibbling on the crispy treat, never wanting it to end.

Check it out:

Clementine
1751 Ensley Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90024
(310) 552-1080
http://www.clementineonline.com/