Oh My Darling, Clementine

Picture it: an unassuming café tucked away on a side street off of Santa Monica Blvd and across from the Century City Shopping Mall. A foodie friend had told me about this jewel of a place called Clementine. He’d hailed it as his new favorite spot. My friend is definitely in the know, but he has a new favorite spot every week. So, despite his glowing review, I delayed in getting over there until recently. A girlfriend of mine called last week saying she wanted to get together and try a new restaurant. I racked my brain, as I always seem to do (even with the surplus of cafes in LA) and told her I’d come up with something grand, right away. We hadn’t seen each other in ages, so the pressure was on to find the perfect combination of good food and an atmosphere conducive to catching up with an old friend. What would I produce? As I scanned the options in my mind’s eye, lots of tired old places came flowing in. I was desperately lacking inspiration, when I glanced up from my laptop and saw a wooden bowl filled with orange clementines, perched upon the faded kitchen counter. That was it! Clementine.

Though it was sunny the day I went to meet my friend Rae at Clementine, the wind was blowing wildly and my hair had gone from curly to crazy within moments. No matter, my thoughts were squarely focused on the imminent experience to come. Did I mention that my friend Rae is very particular about food? No dairy, no pork, no sugar. Basically, all the good stuff. I, on the other hand am a staunch supporter of all that pleases my palate, to include: bacon, animal fat, sugar in all forms and lots and lots of dairy. But I digress. I got there a bit early and walked into the squat, brick building, protected by a bright orange awning. Small. No, intimate. A cozy and informal space featuring no more than about fifteen small wooden tables. It’s about 2 o’clock when I arrive, so the lunch crowd has gone for the most part. I approach the glass display counter, where much to my delight, there are tantalizing treats to behold. My eyes are darting all over the place, unable to focus. I inhale the fresh and pungent aromas swirling amid the busy orchestra that is the nearby kitchen. A lovely young woman comes to my rescue. I sense she can read the overwhelm on my face. She offers to let me taste any and everything I want. She is also my new BFF.

I oblige and begin with a butterbean, kale and bacon salad. The textures and flavors are perfect in my mouth—creamy beans, crunchy kale and salty bacon. It was unfussy and clean. The marriage of these three simple ingredients makes me believe I’ve arrived at the culinary pearly gates! Next is a seafood salad featuring grilled calamari, prawns and seasonal roast veggies like carrots, onions and fennel, tossed in a light vinaigrette, and topped with garbanzo beans. The fennel is a surprise. It’s distinct, but not overpowering. There’s an explosion of sweetness from the seafood, but the smoky flavors of the grill balance it out. The acidity is just right. This dish manages to be satisfying and also light. Finally, I try a jazzy potato salad. It has tuna, fingerling potatoes, radishes, and red onions. I’ve always adored tuna, and right away I knew I wanted to try this dish. The potatoes were a buttery shade of yellow which matched their velvety consistency—just the way I like them. The tuna was moist, and had been dressed simply in olive oil and lemon juice. The radish and onion offered crunch and the perfect amount of heat. This deconstructed version of a Nicoise salad had the effortless heartiness I’d hoped for.

The Delicious Salads

As I swallowed my last bite, in walked Rae, with an expression on her face that could only be described as familiar. Familiar, because five minutes earlier I’d walked into Clementine apprehensive, and then immediately at ease in its obvious warmth. I greeted Rae with a big hug and introduce her to the glass case, displaying the delights I’d recently sampled. She too was overwhelmed by the beautiful choices and was invited to try whatever whetted her appetite. I silently watched as her face lit up in orgasmic glee over savory wilted greens. Relief settled over me the instant I realized this finicky foodie could be just as happy here as I could.

We finally sat down to enjoy our meals at a quiet table by the window. There was little conversation as we both dug into our healthy portions. We’d both decided on a 3-salad combo having quickly understood that choosing just one thing would be impossible. There is tremendous comfort in food. Most people think of comfort food as familiar staples like mac and cheese or mashed potatoes. And while I love those things, I believe it’s really about how the food is presented. Clementine’s food offered an inventive gastronomic experience for my taste buds, and a much needed boost for my soul. Rae and I couldn’t resist ordering buttery German chocolate chip cookies for dessert. We strolled out into the brisk air, each nibbling on the crispy treat, never wanting it to end.

Check it out:

Clementine
1751 Ensley Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90024
(310) 552-1080
http://www.clementineonline.com/